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Well, the fact is that just like people, cars do better when they get regular exercise. Even leaving your car in storage takes a toll on parts. You need to warm up a car regularly to dispel condensing water and keep a coat of oil on the mechanical parts. Plus, if you’re using natural oils they will develop acids over time, and those acids need to be flushed. That’s why the oil change interval is 3,000 miles or every 6 months.

You need a mechanical maintenance regimen appropriate to your car and your driving habits. The following is a seasonally-based mechanical maintenance schedule. I organize my maintenance schedule this way because my restored cars are used about 1,000 to 2,000 miles of driving each year in about 10 trips. A trip is usually about 20-50 miles, but there are one or two trips up to 600 miles long. The cars are garaged the rest of the time, including a long winter hiatus. This maintenance calendar begins with winter storage:

Prepare for winter storage:

· Wash and clean the car.

· Change the motor oil and filter.

· Test and ensure the engine coolant is a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water.

· Check and ensure that all tires are properly inflated. Overinflating a little bit (10 pounds) is OK if the tires tend to lose air over time.

· Fill the fuel tank and add fuel stabilizer. Run the car long enough to circulate stabilized fuel to the carburetor.

· Disconnect the battery and place a high-quality battery tender on the car.

· Make sure the parking brake is not set, and the car is in gear

· Add moth balls or other pest repellents.

Remove the car from winter storage:

· Remove moth balls and pest repellents

· Lubricate the chassis.

· Ensure the battery is well-charged and reconnect it.

· Spray anti-corrosive on battery connections.

· Check the tire inflation and set pressures for driving. Don’t forget the spare!

· Check the wheel lug nuts for tightness.

· Check all fluid levels, including brake and clutch hydraulic fluid as appropriate.

· Check the ignition timing and dwell.

· Check generator/alternator charging output.

· Drive the car and run the heater and heater fan.

After using up the winter tank of stabilized gasoline:

· Adjust the brakes.

· Adjust the clutch (if necessary).

· Adjust the valve lash.

· Refill with fresh gasoline.

Before each tour or rally:

· Check tire inflation.

· Check the wheel lug nuts.

· Check all fluid levels.

Before the first long tour or rally:

· Flush brake and clutch hydraulic fluid.

· Check tire inflation.

· Check and tighten wheel bearings.

· Check and adjust carburetor tuning.

· Check all spares and trunk supplies.

About Mid-Season:

· Rotate the tires.

· Change the oil and filter.

· Check the ignition timing and dwell.

· Replace spark plugs, if necessary.

You may find that a monthly/quarterly/annual calendar, or a mileage-based maintenance calendar works better for you. What is important is that you develop a schedule so that you do not forget to attend to important mechanical maintenance. Otherwise it is far too easy to believe “I just checked that recently” when you have let 5 years go by between chassis lubrication or valve lash adjustment.

Classic cars simply take more maintenance than modern cars, and they have no facility to automatically tell you when something is out of adjustment. Diligent maintenance pays off in enjoyment, and neglect can easily leave you sitting by the side of the road waiting for a tow truck.