Dent Removal

Body workers use a number of techniques to work out dents, such as hammer and dolly work and hot shrinking for small dents. These work well, but require specialized skills. You can get some of these skills by taking a class at your local community college or attending a private workshop on bodywork and paint preparation. But even with proper instruction it takes a lot of practice to get good enough to work on your showpiece restoration. Top body men using classic techniques may also fill gaps with lead, which is potentially poisonous and requires even more specialized skills.

At the other end of the spectrum, you can simply fill the dent with plastic body filler (commonly known by the brand name “Bondo”), but you need to understand that no matter how good a job you do, car show judges can spot filler and will judge your car accordingly.

Bodywork is one of those areas of car restoration where you can either invest in education and practice, or you can invest in hiring a pro to do the job right. Which one is best depends on how many of these projects you expect to do and whether doing the job with your own hands is important to you.

One facet of dent removal that’s getting a lot of attention these days is paintless dent removal. This generally comes into play after your restoration is complete, such as when a tree limb falls on your perfectly restored car and dents the hood at a car show. (Don’t scoff, I was there when it happened!)

Paintless dent removal is truly an art form. The technique involves using a specialized set of tools that look like long hooks.

Dent removal tools

The hooks come in various sizes and the tips are sometimes pointed and sometimes blunt. The characteristic features are that they can be inserted behind a body panel and turned to place the tip against the backside of a dent. Once in position, the paintless dent removal artist gently massages the dent out of the metal from the backside. They often use mirrors or other devices stuck to the outside of the car to help them see the dent clearly.

A paintless dent removal must be seen in operation to be believed. The process works like magic. Slowly, patiently, working with progressively finer hooks, the dent gets smaller and smaller until you can’t tell it was ever there.

Of course, not all dents can be removed using this technique. If the paint has cracked, you’re going to be touching up the spot, or repainting the whole area. Similarly, if the metal has stretched too far, the dent cannot be massaged out, nor can the technique be used to smooth defects in which the metal is dented out from the inside. But for the vast majority of small dings, the process works well and is far less expensive than traditional bodywork.

PR: What are the mirrors and reflectors for?

RC: The process involves being able to “read” the reflection of the dent, to see where the dent starts, where the middle is, where it ends, and then to comprehend where the tip of the tool is. We use different shaped metal rods to massage the dent out. From there it’s all skill and patience.

PR: What if the paint has cracked or chipped? That kind of puts the kibosh on the “paintless” part right?

RC: What many people perceive as a chip or scratch is often just an abrasion from the impact. If the abrasion is in the clearcoat, these can usually be polished out when we remove the dent. If the paint is chipped or scratched down to the primer or steel, then factory touch-up paint will make for a very acceptable repair. We don’t handle the touch-up, though.

PR: How much should someone expect to spend on PDR?

RC: In the industry, we talk about nickel, dime, and quarter-sized dents. Where I am in California, it’s usually about $100 to $150 for the first dent. Sometimes the first dent is so much and the second is half price. I do more of a package. So the first one is $100 to $150, but if there are a couple more, I’m already there at the customer’s home or office and can make a package price. Coin-size pricing is also dependent on the dent being basically in a flat panel that’s easy to get to. If we have to spend time to take things apart to get at the dent, that affects the price. Also, year and model matter. Some cars are easier to work with than others.

PR: As with any restoration service, we caution our readers that the cheapest price is not always the best option. Does that hold true in PDR?

RC: You get what you pay for, and experience is critical, especially when the dent falls across body lines or in challenging locations. When people are looking for a dent guy, the first thing they need to ask is “Tell me about you and your experience” - not the price. They should also ask, “Have you worked on a high-caliber car? How long have you been doing this work?”

PR: We always encourage our readers to ask for references and to rely on their local club and restoration profressionals for recommendations.

RC: That’s good. You can ask for references, but who will you get? Most of us PDR artists work a lot at used car dealerships. The reference I would give would be a restoration shop or a club, because those people love their cars.

In The Complete Guide to Auto Body Repair, Dennis Parks shows you the tools, materials, and techniques that will successfully get you through the bodywork process, repairing damage from collisions, neglect, and rust.

Dennis Parks has also written How to Build a Hot Rod, How to Plate, Polish, and Chrome, How to Restore and Customize Auto Upholstery and Interiors, and How to Paint Your Car.