Wheels are relatively easy compared to some aspects of classic car restoration. Most restorable cars used steel wheels of some kind, generally covered with hubcaps. Steel is a tough, forgiving metal that can be welded, straightened, and refinished many times and still come out structurally sound and looking good.
Rust is the big enemy of steel wheels. Many restorable classics have sat on flat tires for years, and so the edge of the wheels that happened to be pointed down when the car was parked are especially susceptible to rust. But the good news is that you can cut away a rusty section and replace it, or in the most extreme case, vintage and reproduction steel wheels are available for the vast majority of likely restorations.
Most tire shops can handle some level of straightening. They’ll mount the wheel up on a spin balancer and measure the wheel’s runout - or the amount that it wobbles away from truly straight (also called “true”). With a steel wheel, dents in the lip and a bit of runout can be fixed with a hammer and dolly. If the wheel is cracked, it can be welded and come back good as new. Remember that chrome or other plating surfaces hide cracks! Many racers use nickel plating for critical applications, because nickel does not hide cracks.
The situation is more complex with alloy, wooden spoke, or wire spoke wheels.
Alloy wheels are more prone to cracks and can become brittle with age. Many of the alloys include magnesium or other elements that are difficult to weld and impossible to hammer if they’ve been dented or damaged. If you’re planning to ride around in an expensive restoration, it pays to have your alloy wheels carefully examined for cracks and weak locations before you paint them, because paint will hide small cracks. All-aluminum and some alloy wheels can be welded if they are cracked, but should then be re-tempered.
Stripping and prepping an alloy wheel is a tricky business. Most chemical strippers dissolve aluminum, and abrasive blasts remove metal from the wheel. Restorers use the lightest possible solution of solvent and strip the wheel quickly, then neutralize the solvent immediately. If you choose to strip your alloy wheels, insist on lightweight abrasives such as walnut shell, plastic beads, or light chemical strippers. Most importantly, send your wheels to an expert to apply these stripping techniques.
Wooden spoke wheels simply must be sent to a specialist for proper restoration. Repairing and replacing wooden parts in a wheel is a job for expert artisans, as it has always been. No one else can do it. Getting the finish done to restoration quality also requires a delicate touch. Most wooden wheels were originally finished in marine spar varnish, so boat restoration supplies and techniques work well here.
Wire wheels are a little more forgiving, but also benefit from a trip to the wire wheel specialist. A good wire wheel shop will test the wheel for runout, test each spoke, replace any spokes that are weak or broken, inspect and repair the mounting splines, and re-seal the wheel. Then, most importantly, the shop will tune the wheel - that is, make sure the tension on each spoke is correct to hold the wheel in true and in balance. All of these factors combine to help your wire wheels balance, and it can be dangerous if your wire wheels have not been maintained properly.
When your wheels are known to be sound and true, you can paint them. Most steel wheels take a single color, and powder coating is popular as a way to put a durable, easy to clean finish on them. Do not powder coat an aluminum or alloy wheel, however, as the baking process destroys the temper of the alloy, and results in a brittle wheel. Spoke wheels can be powder coated, but the heat can throw them out of tune, and the coating must be broken to re-tune them later.
Most original factory wheel paints have been reproduced, so it’s easy to find your correct color and formulation in a spray can, and with attention to detail, you can do a good job with a basic single-color paint.
If your wheels require a special two-tone paint job, you may be able to find stencils to help you paint. Here’s a tip - place the stencil on the base-painted wheel and apply a second coat of the wheel’s base color over the stencil and the wheel - this will seal the edges of the stencil and help combat paint bleeding when you then overlay the contrasting color. Take your time and pay attention to detail for best results.
When your wheels are done, pay special attention to the equipment used to mount tires on your restored wheels. A modern tire shop should have “no-touch” equipment that will not scratch or dent your wheels. The time spent on the mounting and balancing equipment is the most dangerous time for your wheels. If you are using wire wheels or other wheels that require an inner tube, be sure your tire shop is experienced working with tubes.
Finally, modern balancing weights can ruin the look of a well-restored vintage wheel. No one will ever notice that a wheel has no visible balancing weights, but everyone notices an ugly weight. Spend a few extra dollars and ask the tire shop to install the weights on the inside of the wheel, or use stick-on weights behind the arms of the wheel, where they will be invisible to general inspection. If you plan to trailer your car and do not plan to drive it at roadway or highway speeds, you can omit balancing the wheels entirely.
