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There’s an old joke in the car hobby about the guy who set out to change his car’s air filter (or something else equally trivial) and ended up performing a frame-off restoration. The story goes that he figured, “I might as well rebuild the carburetor while I’ve got the air filter off.” At each stage, you can get drawn farther into the project; often farther than you originally intended to go.

As you think your project through, remember that what you can achieve will be dictated by your abilities, the calendar and your bankroll. You can save some bankroll if you have time and abilities, or get a good result without time or abilities if you’ve got a big bankroll. Either way, it’s a tradeoff.

Most people approach the idea of restoration with a make and model in mind, and many already own the car in question. So although some of those decisions are likely already made, I need to make you aware of certain caveats so you won’t be surprised half way through the project.

100 points, 95 points, or just a nice driver?

Concours (also called Concours D’Elegance) car shows judge restorations for originality, completeness, and quality on a points system. 100 points is a perfect car. In theory, every aspect of the car is just as it was on the day the car rolled off the assembly line. In reality, 100-point cars are often significantly better than the day they left the factory.

At a concours, judges start with 100 points and deduct points for flaws, incorrect equipment, and low quality work. For example, you might lose a quarter-point for a worn piece of carpet or for using the wrong cap nut on a fitting. Larger flaws, like having the wrong radio installed, can be worth several points. Top concours winners sweat every detail, and major awards are won and lost over the tiniest flaws.

Now, 100-point cars are wonderful and they certainly have their bragging rights, but bear in mind that to take a 95-point car to 100 points can cost as much as the first 95-points. The difference is painstaking accuracy and attention to detail, and most people won’t know that difference.

100-point jobs will require everything to be redone, body off, down to the last nut and bolt. A 95-point restoration generally wouldn’t require the body to come off. A 95-pointer is just a really original, well-restored driving car. Most “drivers” will fall in the 80-90 point range. They’re safe, reliable, comfortable, and look worn just enough to give them some history and personality.

There’s no shame in having an 80-point car that runs and drives well. Most people are more impressed by what a car is than by the last 10% that separates a concours-winner from a driveable car. Furthermore, 80 point cars win local, regional, and even national car shows that are not concours on a regular basis.

To Body-Off or Not to Body-Off?

Body-off restorations are a lot of work and can open up a Pandora’s box of problems. I don’t recommend doing it unless you’re going for a 100-pointer, or unless you notice body mounting problems that need to be addressed. I usually remove only the “front clip” (hood, front fenders, inner fender panels and radiator support), the doors, rear fenders, and the deck lid.

Thinking through the body-off question is important because answer determines whether you wind up with an enjoyable project or a basket case.

Before you begin, you need to decide if you are going to do just a couple of things to bring your car up to where you want it, or if are you going to do the whole thing stem-to-stern, top-to-bottom. Take a look at your car, or jot these ideas down as decision factors while you shop for a candidate.

Does the car need only a bit of interior work and some basic engine or mechanical work? If this is the case you’re in luck and you’ll undoubtedly be successful. You’ll be able to drive and enjoy the car between repairs so you won’t forget why you got involved in the first place.

If you’re looking at a much deeper project, you need to decide if you are going to do the whole thing at once or in stages. By this I mean, will you tear the whole thing apart at once or do you want to concentrate on just one area at a time and finish that aspect before moving on to the next? This is the question that creates potential basket cases.

Each method (tear-apart or area-by-area) has its pros and cons. Simply disassembling a car is easy and tempting to do. Many times people will start with the best intentions, but they get frustrated or disillusioned when they see a stripped-bare car sitting in their garage, month after month, surrounded by boxes of dirty parts. You can avoid that mental pitfall by being organized and realistic about the time involved in a big project. More importantly, be realistic about the amount of money involved.

If you’re a restoration rookie and want to avoid the ”bare body syndrome” then you should do things in stages. That way you’ll always have a relatively complete car staring at you. You pull off one item, clean it, overhaul/restore it, and put it back on. Then move on to the next item. It’s also a little cheaper because you won’t be doing as much as if it were an all-or-nothing job.

The Universal Restoration Truism

Some people who have never restored a car will find this rule hard to believe. If you find yourself thinking it can’t possibly be true, ask someone who has performed a complete restoration and take their word for it. Here’s the rule:

”Whatever you estimate it will cost or how long you think it will take...DOUBLE IT.”

Also bear in mind that estimates involving dirty, rusty pieces of metal are always subject to revision. Broken bolts happen and they can rarely be removed with an “easy-out”. And a part that didn’t need to be restored but needed to be removed to get to a part that does is always susceptible to damage. These all come under the purview of “Murphy’s Law.”

Remember as you work that the journey of a restoration is as important as the results. This hobby is about taking tender loving care of an old machine. If you don’t really love the work, you’re much better off buying a completed car.